Ancient Armenia
It all started in 2016 when I was asked to organize a rally in Georgia for pre-war cars. The rally took place in 2018 and in the process, I did meet a fellow Dutchman living in Tbilisi and doing motorcycle tours.
Willem and I decided to team up and have a 4×4 rally in this fascinating country. With Covid as an interlude we had two rallies so far and everybody was enthusiastic.
So, we have to offer something new.
Georgia being the second country to adopt Christianity, we found it more than logic to go to the first country to have adopted Christianity, Armenia (301 AD.).
We tend to see history as we were taught at school, through western eyes. We never realized that the history in the Caucasus is as rich as that in Europe, and not much different.
Villagers seek protection with their lord and work for him, the lord taxes them and builds castles. He builds an army to get more powerful and conquers another lords’ grounds.
Meanwhile the church gives her blessing to everyone.
The legacy of this history can be found throughout Armenia and, together with archeologist Dimitri Jachvliani, we will explore the most important sites.
We start in Tbilisi, Georgia. It is a relaxed and very welcoming city with an old center with a great many restaurants and cafés.
You will be provided with a Toyota Landcruiser or similar for the 9 days of the journey.
After a beautiful drive along a series of lakes high in the mountains we arrive in Armenia. We will be driving some wonderful mountain roads, have fantastic views especially of Mt Ararat, and visit several fascinating churches, temples and castles.
There will be some off-roading, but the government seems to be very active in putting asphalt over nice dirt roads. They call that progress.
In general hotels are not up to the western standards but we found decent to good accommodation.
It is not only the landscape, which will grasp you. It is the combination with the unique culture, the cuisine and the warmth of tis people.
There is availability for a limited number of 15 crew!
We will meet you up at the Tbilisi Airport and bring you to the comfortable Radisson Hotel in the center of this exciting city. If you come a day early, then you will have plenty of time to discover ancient Tbilisi with its many restaurants and cafés. It is a nice town to spend some time.
We leave Tbilisi and start climbing to 2200 meters and drive on a plateau interlaced with lakes mirroring the fields and cows. It is a beautiful and serene drive.
In the afternoon we pass the border into Armenia and we are reminded on how happy we can be with the European union.
We will stay in the center of historic Gyumri in the former KGB headquarters turned into a luxurious hotel. Gyumri is the second largest city of Armenia and considered the cultural capital.
We drive along the Akhurian River separating Armenia and Turkey. In the distance we start to see the mountain that will be dominating the scenery for the coming days and which the Armenians consider as theirs, Mt Ararat.
We get a better feeling of the tragic history of Armenia when we cross the barbed wire border to get even closer to the border in order to see the ancient capital of Armenia which is situated at the other side of the canyon separating both countries. In the 10th century Ani had a population of 100.000, and was so richly endowed with sacred buildings that it came to be known as the “city of 1,001 churches”. It is part of the UNESCO WORLD Heritage.
The border guards are Russian, a heritage of the Soviet Union, giving Russia the right to guard the external borders of the old Union.
We continue through the countryside and come across one of the most amazing fortresses dating back to the 10th century. It is in no guide, there is no tourist infrastructure around it. It is just sitting there, home to a farmer with two cows. And it is immense with its 3 layers of fortification, all with Mt. Ararat in the backdrop.
We continue to Etsmiadzin, the spiritual capital of Armenia and the seat of the patriarch. We have lunch at the historical refectory with a splendid view on Mt. Ararat.
After lunch we walk to the cathedral with foundations dating back to 301 AD, the year Armenia adopted Christianity.
Not far from Etsmiadzon we visit one of the highligths of Armenia, the 7th century Zvartnots cathedral, or at least the impressive ruins of it with – surprise – Mt. Ararat on the background.
The night will be spend overlooking Yerevan.
From the hotel we drive into the mountains, I might have said it before but it is amazingly beautiful. Our destination is Fort Amerd and the church. For those who do not care about the history, just gaze at the views, the setting, the image the perfect composition.
The road continues on Mt Aragat to Lake Kari at 3185 meter. Did I already mention something about the amazing scenery ?
On the way down to Yerevan we will have lunch and degustation at the oldest winery restarting the 6000 year old tradition of wine making.
We will be in time in Yeravan for a visit to the cognac factory. (NB: Until recently the only brandy being allowed the name Cognac and not coming from the French region was from this factory). Alternatively, you can opt for a visit to the History Museum of Armenia.
Our Grand Hotel is just around the corner on the main square of town. We suggest you take a walk at night. The city is completely safe and you will be amazed at the number of people having a stroll until late at night.
A culture packed day:
- The most amazing church in Armenia according to our opinion. Especially the rock hewn interior (4th – 13th century).
- The pre-Christian Greco-Roman temple of Garni.
- For those who are interested: The Khor Virap Monastery on the border with Turkey and Iran.
All with Mt Ararat as a backdrop.
- The Noravank Monastery magnificently hidden in its canyon.
We conclude the day with a dinner and wine tasting at the Old Bridge Winery with its magnificent wines matured under the intense sun of Armenia.
From there is 20 km to the hotel in the mountains
From the hotel we climb on the unpaved road up to the pass reaching south. It is quite serious off-roading for the novice but is no challenge for our Landcruisers. Strangely enough, at the top the road changes into a perfect and beautiful asphalt road meandering through the mountains.
NB: It is possible to bypass this path by going back the 20 km from last night to the main road.
There is one road going south, it is a beautiful road going through the mountains. Being a main road, it is not very eventful except for the MACK-trucks carrying fuel from Iran. NB Armenia has an exemption from the US to trade with Iran. Yes, and the borders are controlled by Russia,…
There are a few sites on the way which are worthwhile stopping for: Waterfalls and the pre-historic site of Zorats Karer with its menhirs dating back to before Stonehenge. We provide you with a pick nick bag so that you can stop at either one and have a bite.
We continue on what will be the new road to Iran towards the Monastery of Tatev, magnificently situated above a vast canyon. The light at the monastery is at its best in the late afternoon.
To reach the hotel we have to drive down the canyon and up again over what (by that time) will no more be the main artery to Iran.
The hotel is well situated, overlooking the canyon. It will be a great evening.
We continue on what used to be the main route to Iran but this time back north. But not before making a loop into the ancient hills towards the Azeri border. Absolutely fascinating landscape.
Before hitting the main road again we have a visit at a corporation of women making carpets. They will also prepare lunch for us.
I am looking forward to it.
We end the day in the resort place of Jermuk. It is a mix of old dilapidated Soviet hotels and newly build colossi of a questionable architectural style. Whatever the style, the rooms are comfortable.
A quite straightforward day, however we climb the Sulema Pass (2410 m). It is just out of a different world. Almost at the top there is an ancient Caravansarai. It is the ideal place for a first bite at your pick nick. The rest you could eat at the shores of Lake Savan, the second highest large lake behind Lake Titicaca. It is also the largest lake of the Caucasus.
On its shores is the pleasant hotel where we will be staying for the night. The outside pool is heated to 25 degrees. No excuses not to have a go.
We continue the beautiful drive along the lake before again going into the mountains. We drive in a valley from village to village. The Lada is still automotive staple. It is a mix of Soviet times and capitalist far West.
We make good progress so that we can have lunch at our comfortable destination. Those wishing so can go for an extra loop through several canyons in the region. You will be happy to be in your Landcruiser even though the locals drive with the whole family in the Lada on the same road.
You will be visiting the Lori Castle overlooking one of the gorges. A fantastic setting and once again the evidence that Armenia has its own place in history which is as significant as that of some Western countries.
The drive out of Armenia is again through gorges, at some point we pass old Soviet mining facilities. I wanted to discover them, but Dimitri the archeologist accompanying me did not want to stop because of the pollution. We will have to content ourselves with these fascinating plants and how they are still operating in some parts of the world.
It puts the output of our cars in perspective.
We are well in time in Tbilisi to relax a bit before the closing diner in one of the many stylish restaurants.
Our last hotel will be the newly build Pullmann Hotel in the posh district of Tbilisi. Itis here that you will find all the exclusive shops in town.
You could fly home, we will be happy to bring you to the airport. But we suggest you stay a few days. Tbilisi is a really nice town with many restaurants and cafés. It will feel like Paris after the trip to Armenia.
You can also choose to keep your car and discover Tusheti (weather permitting). Just inquire and be convinced that this trip would be absolutely flabbergasting.
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Piet Philipsen (NL)
Ellen Philipsen (NL)
Brach Simpson (USA)
Hedy Simpson (USA)
Stephen Lambert (AUS)
Ruth Lambert (AUS)
Alec Hammond (UK)
Barbara Hammond (UK)
Theo du Toit (SA)
Esmarie du Toit (SA)
Martin Bensch (SA)
Elna Bensch (SA)
Nicholas Pryor (UK)
Lesley Stockwell (UK)
Roger Allen (AUS)
Maggie Gray (AUS)
Brabara Shooter (UK)
Lady Xiaofen Aird (UK)
João Corte Real (P)
Maria Antónia Sacadura Botte (P)
Jose Romao de Sousa (P)
Maria Romao de Sousa (P)
Rob Jeurissen (NL)
Jeanne Jeurissen (NL)
Tonnie Verbeek (NL)
Emiel Verbeek (NL)
Rolf Dalhuisen (NL)
Jan-Dirk Hageman (NL)
Terkel Ovesen (DK)
Birgitte Ovesen (DK)
Phil Garratt (UK)
Kieron Brown (UK)
Rally Details
Start: Tuesday July 16, 2024
Radisson Blu Iveria Hotel
Tbilisi
Finish: Thursday July 25, 2024
Pullman Hotel
Tbilisi
Included
- A Maximum of 15 crew.
- Ten nights
- Ten dinners.
- Ten lunches.
- Toyota Landcruiser (or similar for 9 days).
- Dutch guide living in Georgia: Willem.
- Explanations by archeologist Dimitri.
- Entry fees.
- Peaks of the Caucasus polo shirt.
- Roadbooks, rallyshields etc.
Entry fee
Early registration: € 6.500, –, until September 30th, 2023.
Late registration: € 6.950, – registration after September 30th.
Upgrade (you get better rooms when available): € 600, –
Total kilometers
Total rally kilometers: 1.530 km
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